Watercolour Painting Essentials – Lillian Gray

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All you need for Lillian Gray - Essentials for Watercolour Painting Bundle. Bundle includes:
1 × Aquafine Jumbo Watercolour Pads - Daler Rowney - A3 (42 x 29.7cm), Smooth

1 in Stock

1 × Professional Watercolor Sets - Mungyo - Set of 24

1 in Stock

1 × Bianco Brushes - Prime Art - BIANCO FLAT 2
1 × Bianco Brushes - Prime Art - BIANCO FLAT 12

7 in Stock

1 × Bianco Brushes - Prime Art - BIANCO FLAT 20
1 × Bianco Brushes - Prime Art - BIANCO ROUND 0
1 × Bianco Brushes - Prime Art - BIANCO ROUND 2
1 × Art Masking Fluid 100ml - Zellen
1 × Plastic Palette - 10 Well

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If you are a beginner at watercolour painting, then be sure to get everything that is mentioned in the Essential Watercolor Painting Supplies list. These are the things you really cannot do a watercolour painting without.

Water Colours are considered the hardest medium to learn. The reason being that this medium is very un-forgiving, once you make an error; you need to re-start your painting. Other mediums such as oils, allows you to hide a myriad of mistakes. Non-the-less, it is a beautiful medium with stunning translucent effects that no other medium can achieve. It is also the perfect medium to travel with since the kit is small. In this post, you will find out what watercolour painting supplies you’ll need to begin painting with watercolours.

The great news is that you actually don’t need that many supplies to get started with watercolours.

This makes water colouring an affordable pastime. Even if you just have a beginner’s set, you can still make some beautiful art!

If you are starting to get serious about your artwork, no matter what age, you may also be starting to get serious about the materials that you use. Rather opt for the best watercolour supplies.

Watercolour Essentials

To get started with watercolour painting, you will need these 5 essential watercolour painting supplies; paints, paintbrushes, watercolour paper, a palette, a container of water.

1. Paint

Watercolours come in 2 forms: tubes and pans. Tubes of watercolours are already moist, with a pasty consistency. Pans of watercolours are like hard cakes of paint that need to be moistened with water to be used.

Please buy the pans. This allows you to add your own amount of moister and truly understand how to mix watercolours.

Watercolour paints are also available in 2 types of quality: Artist Quality and Student Quality. The Student Quality watercolours are more affordable, but they contain more filler and less pigment than their Artist Quality counterparts. You basically get what you pay for. With Artist Quality watercolours, you can achieve more subtleties with colour and transparency. If you can afford it, please buy Artist Quality. It does make a massive difference.


2. Brushes

When buying watercolour brushes, you have 3 choices to consider: hair, size, and shape. If you’re a beginner, all the info below about brushes might overwhelm you – so I’ll tell you what you need to know in a nutshell:

Quick Beginner’s Guide to Watercolour Brushes:

Natural brushes are better than synthetics, and if you can only afford one brush, choose a natural round brush. If you can afford two brushes, get a small round and a medium round.

This is all you need to get started – you can worry about the other sizes and shapes later!

If you’re on a budget, you’ll be happy to know that you can create an entire watercolour painting using just one brush!

If you’re ready to learn more about watercolour brushes, read on…

Hair – Natural hair paintbrushes are the best choice for painting with watercolours, but they can also be costly. Sable hair is the most revered, but they last a lifetime.

Other types of hair used to create watercolour brushes include ox hair, which is ideal for square brushes; squirrel hair, which is ideal for mop brushes; and goat hair, which is ideal for creating large washes.

If you are on a budget, there are some good synthetic brushes you can try that work well with watercolours. With the right care, they can last a long time, but will likely not last a lifetime. Synthetic brushes may need to be replaced every few years.

Size – Watercolour Brushes come in sizes ranging from super-tiny to somewhat large.

A range of sizes is nice, but you don’t need that many because watercolour brushes are so versatile.

A medium or large round brush, for example, is sufficient for creating both large washes of colour and for creating fine details, so you can use the same brush for both functions.

Shape – Watercolour brushes are available in several different shapes that serve different functions:

  • Angular – The hairs are cut at an angle (hence the name). Can be used for precise strokes.
  • Flat – Can hold lots of colours. The edge can be used for sharp lines, but the brush can also be used to fill in broad areas with colour.
  • Square Wash – Looks like a short, stumpy version of the flat brush. Ideal for wetting the paper or laying in washes.
  • Mop – Great for wetting your paper and laying in large areas of colour quickly.
  • Oval Wash – These brushes look kind of puffy, like a make-up brush. Used for wetting paper and laying large washes of colour quickly. These brushes never form a point or an edge.
  • Script / Liner – Pointy, narrow brush for executing fine details.
  • Round – The best “all-around” brush. The round brush can be used for both details and washes. You can change the width of your lines by varying your angle and pressure.

3. Watercolour Paper

Watercolour papers are available as sheets, pads, or blocks. There are Student Papers and Artist Papers, and again, you get what you pay for. Artist papers will be better quality, which will allow you to achieve better results.

Sheets – Artist Quality watercolour papers can be purchased in individual sheets that you can cut to size. This is a good way to try out different types of paper. But it is pricey.

Pads – Most watercolour pads contain Student Quality watercolour paper that is connected on one edge. Watercolour pads usually contain 10-20 sheets. Pads are great for travel and also handy for practice! Please buy a pad to start with.

Blocks – Watercolour blocks are basically a pile of watercolour papers that are glued together on one edge. You paint on the top sheet and then after the painting has dried, you insert a knife into the glued binding and gently remove your page. The benefit of painting on watercolour blocks is that you don’t need to stretch your paper, which we’ll talk about later.

There’s one more thing you should know about watercolour papers: they are available as hot-pressed, cold-pressed, or rough. Most watercolorists use rough or cold-pressed paper.

Be kind to yourself and don’t buy less than 300gms. Your paper will warp dramatically if you buy


4. Pallet

Most watercolour palettes are either plastic or ceramic. Ceramic palettes are better quality; the plastic palettes will eventually become stained with the paint, but plastic palettes are lighter and easier to hold.
Choose a palette that has separate wells that you can mix your colours in. The walls of the wells will keep the colours separate, otherwise the watery paint may just run into each other. This causes your pigment to turn ‘dirty’.
If you use pan watercolours, you can also use the plastic lid of the watercolour set as a palette. Just be sure that the lid is dry when you close it.
In a pinch, you can use tin foil or a dinner plate as a palette. Just be sure to space the colours far enough apart that they don’t run into each other!


5. Water Container

A glass, jar or cup of water is essential. It’s best if your container is clear so that you can see how clean or dirty the water is. It’s important to change the water when it becomes too murky; otherwise, the residue can get onto your brush and wind up on your painting.

Some artists use 2 containers of water – one full of clean water for dipping, and one for rinsing in between colours.

Phew! Congratulations, you’ve just gotten through the list of Essential Watercolor Painting Supplies!


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